Saturday, August 1, 2026 09:20 PM

Nirmal Purja, who redefined Himalayan climbing, dies in Broad Peak avalanche

Kathmandu, Aug 1: Celebrated Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja, widely known as “Nims Dai,” has died in an avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak, bringing an end to the remarkable life of one of the greatest climbers of his generation. He was 43.

Purja was among six Nepali climbers killed when an avalanche swept through their expedition on Broad Peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram range on Thursday. The deaths were confirmed on Saturday after search efforts. The other victims were Pur Bahadur Gurung, Nima Sherpa, Kili Pemba Sherpa, Gyalu Sherpa, and Nawang Thindu Sherpa. Four foreign climbers were also part of the 10-member expedition.

Prime Minister Balen Shah expressed sorrow over the tragedy and paid tribute to the climbers.

Born in the remote village of Dana in Myagdi district, Purja grew up in Chitwan in a family with a military background. Drawn to adventure from an early age, he joined the British Gurkhas at 18 in 2003. After serving six years with the Gurkha Rifles, he became the first Nepali to join the British Royal Navy’s elite Special Boat Service, one of the world’s toughest special forces units.

He spent 16 years in military service, including deployments in Afghanistan, before receiving an MBE from Queen Elizabeth II in 2018 for his outstanding service.

That same year, Purja left the military to pursue mountaineering full time. His decision transformed Himalayan climbing.

In 2019, he stunned the world with “Project Possible”, climbing all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres in just six months and six days, shattering the previous record that had stood at more than seven years. The achievement became the subject of the Netflix documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, introducing his story to a global audience.

Purja also helped rewrite mountaineering history in 2021 when he joined a team of 10 Nepali climbers to complete the first-ever winter ascent of K2, the world’s second-highest mountain, long regarded as the last great unsolved challenge in high-altitude climbing.

Beyond records, Purja championed a larger cause. He sought to elevate Nepali climbers from being seen merely as support staff for foreign expeditions to recognised leaders in world mountaineering. Through his company, Elite Exped, he trained, guided, and promoted Nepali climbers on the global stage.

Broad Peak, the world’s 12th highest mountain, is known for its unforgiving terrain and avalanche risk. This time, the mountain claimed a climber who had survived countless dangers throughout his career.

Purja leaves behind a legacy defined not only by extraordinary records but by a belief that inspired climbers around the world: nothing is impossible.

PM Shah pays tribute

Prime Minister Balendra Shah has paid tribute to the Nepali climbers, including Nirmal Purja, who were killed in an avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak.

In a Facebook post on Saturday, Shah said the tragedy had ended only the climbers’ physical journey, while their courage, dedication, and legacy would live on forever.

“Mountaineering is not just about reaching a summit. It is the highest expression of courage, discipline, sacrifice, and the indomitable confidence to push the limits of human endurance,” Shah wrote. “The mountains often reward climbers with the glory of the summit, but sometimes they embrace them forever.” He added that the fallen climbers would remain immortal in history because of their bravery and commitment.

“The tragic loss of world record holder Nirmal Purja, known as Nimsdai, along with fellow climbers on the 8,051-metre Broad Peak, the world’s 12th highest mountain in Pakistan’s Karakoram range, has left us deeply shocked,” he wrote.

“The physical journey of Nirmal Purja and the other departed climbers has come to an end, but their courage, dedication, and contributions will continue to inspire generations,” Shah added.

He also paid heartfelt tribute to all those who lost their lives and extended his deepest condolences to their families, relatives, and well-wishers.

People’s News Monitoring Service

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